Comme certains d’entre vous j’imagine, je suis tombe sur cette nouvelle:
Un californien de 31 ans, Alex Honnold, a grimpe le week-end dernier en solo integral le fameux El capitan. 900m de dalle sans corde ni aucune autre moyen d’assurage. Une premiere.
Voici un recit fait par un de ses amis.
https://www.outsideonline.com/2190306/why-alex-honnolds-free-solo-scared-me
Il semblerait que le cerveau d’Alex ait attire l’attention de scientifiques, qui ont decide de le passer a l’IRM et d’en sortir une observation mi-neuroscientifique, mi-psychologique de quelques pages qui vaut vraiment le detour.
http://nautil.us/issue/39/sport/the-strange-brain-of-the-worlds-greatest-solo-climber
Cela m’a fatalement renvoye a ma perception du parapente, et la raison pour laquelle certains deviennent addictes quand d’autres seraient bien incapable d’essayer: Sommes nous tous egaux biologiquement et genetiquement? Avons-nous tous la meme capacite de concentration pour nous focaliser sur la resolution d’une situation tendue, avons-nous tous la meme pollution memorielle (flash negatifs au deco quand le mec qui decolle avant nous se fait demonter sous nos yeux), etc.
Si vous n’avez pas le temps de lire l’article entier, (mais je vous le recommande fortement) voici quelques extraits interessant:
“Until recently, Monfils says, most psychologists believed that memories—including fear memories—became “consolidated,” or unchangeable, soon after they were acquired. In just the past 16 years, that understanding has shifted. Research has shown that every time we recall a memory, it undergoes reconsolidation, meaning we are able to add new information or a different interpretation to our remembrance, even turning fearful memories into fearless ones.”
“Honnold keeps a detailed climbing journal, in which he revisits his climbs and makes note of what he can do better. For his most challenging solos, he also puts a lot of time into preparation: rehearsing the moves and, later, picturing each movement in perfect execution. To get ready for one 1,200-foot-high ascent at the cutting edge of free soloing, he even visualized everything that could possibly go wrong—including “losing it,” falling off, and bleeding out on the rock below—to come to terms with those possibilities before he left the ground.”
“Honnold also scores as exceedingly conscientious, associated with the ability to concentrate, remain focused on a task, and see things through. He also surveyed high in premeditation, his typical modus operandi, and very low in neuroticism, making him unlikely to ruminate over unlikely outcomes or risks that are impossible to manage. “If you don’t have any fear to begin with,” Honnold says, “there’s a lot less to control.””